Karijini National Park in a 2WD: our guide to the gorges

Can you do Karijini in a 2WD?

Yes, for the main gorges. Ron is a 2WD, and as we say on our essentials page, we stick to sealed roads and firm tracks and keep it sensible. Karijini has got a lot easier for 2WDs: DBCA says roads to the popular gorge sites and accommodation have been sealed so that people in hire cars can stay on sealed roads during their visit. Here's how the places we went, plus a couple we didn't, stack up (official pages checked 2 November 2026):

Parks WA's visitor guide warns that road wash-outs can happen during heavy rain, and that wet gravel roads are slippery, easily damaged and may be closed after heavy rain. Check Parks WA alerts and the Main Roads WA Travel Map before you go, and ask at the visitor centre about anything unsealed. If your van's a hire, check what your agreement says about unsealed roads, too.

Where Karijini fits between Perth and Broome

Karijini is inland, not on the coast road. Going between Perth and Broome on the Great Northern Highway, you pass it between Newman and Port Hedland, and Karijini Drive leads west off the highway into the park. On the other side of the park are Tom Price and Nanutarra Munjina Road (from the Main Roads WA: Western Australian State Routes (PDF)). So you can do it on the way north or south, as a detour off the inland highway, or loop back to the coast afterwards.

We came from Broome, heading south. On the day we went to Hancock Gorge, we looked it up: Broome was 10 hours' drive away. That's how much driving it took us to get there (Karijini video). Before that, we'd made our way across from the NT border in about 19 hours of driving in total, with one stop at Lake Argyle (see our Broome video).

Breaking up the drive from Broome. We made a quick pit stop in Port Hedland (not in the videos). It had everything we needed to top up supplies and fill up Ron, and there are some small cafes if you need a coffee. It was our main resupply stop before the park, so stock up there. Beyond that, there are a few rest areas with toilets along the way. Decide how far you want to drive that day first, then check WikiCamps for one that's within range, so you're parked up before dark.

Signal on the way. We had phone signal at pretty much every roadhouse along the way, which was handy for checking the next stop. That's just our experience: coverage varies by network, and we wouldn't count on it at rest areas or on the stretches in between.

Expect big trucks on the way in. The WA Government says more than 60% of the traffic between Newman and Port Hedland is heavy vehicles (WA Government: Pilbara overtaking lanes on Great Northern Highway (10 August 2024)), and we passed road trains near Tom Price. We try not to drive at sunrise, sunset or after dark when we can, because that's when the wildlife comes out. If you do end up driving after dark, take your time and keep an extra eye out for wildlife. Our Stuart Highway guide has more on sharing the road with road trains.

Road trains and windscreens. Less than a month after Ron's windscreen had been replaced, a road train gave us a new crack in it. When we mentioned it to the camp managers at Dales Campground, they told us the same thing had happened to them on the very day theirs was replaced. You can't rule it out on these roads, but a few general habits help:

• Keep your distance when you're behind a road train. Hang well back from the last trailer rather than sitting close behind it.
• Slow down and move left for oncoming road trains, as far as it's safe to, to give them room as they pass.
• If you can, wait until the end of your trip to get a damaged windscreen replaced. That's a tip from our subscribers, so a new screen doesn't pick up a fresh crack like ours did. We couldn't wait: our earlier damage happened near Darwin and was a safety concern, so we took the chance to replace it then. Now we'll be out of pocket replacing it again.

Our route through the park:

1. Visitor centre, to sort the park pass, then to Dales campground about 10 minutes away. That afternoon: Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool and the Dales Gorge trail.
2. Weano day-use area, about 45 minutes from Dales, for Hancock Gorge and Kermit's Pool. Another night at Dales.
3. Mount Bruce, then into Tom Price to restock, and on to the rest area just outside Hamersley Gorge for the night.
4. Hamersley Gorge the next morning, our last stop in the park.
5. Out of the park and on to Exmouth, over a few days.

Parks WA suggests staying a couple of nights. We'd say give it at least three or four days if you want to do the gorges and Mount Bruce without rushing.

Arriving: the park pass and visitor centre

Before we even got to the visitor centre, we came to a registration station asking for park entry fees. We didn't have a WA park pass, so we checked online there and then. A valid pass covers the entry fee, and the shortest holiday pass works out better if you're in the park for a few days. The catch is that it must be printed and displayed in your vehicle. The staff at the visitor centre very kindly printed ours out for us, like a visitor centre in Tasmania had done before (see it in our Karijini video).

The visitor centre itself is huge and so modern. There was a sign asking for no cameras inside, so you'll have to see it for yourself. Make it your first stop, as Parks WA recommends: we picked up a park map there. Parks WA says it's open 9am to 4pm daily in season, closed from early December to early February, and has showers (for a fee) and a shop with cold drinks and ice cream (Parks WA: Karijini Visitor Centre).

Dales: Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool and Dales Gorge

Where we stayed: Dales campground, for two nights. You check in with the camp host at the office between 9am and 5pm, and the volunteer hosts there were lovely. They gave us a plan of action for the park, including which routes to take, and told us there are no drones and no open flames. Everything is red dirt. The nights were cold in August: we went from sleeping with a fan on in the north to waking up cold and digging out the fluffy socks.

Fortescue Falls. You can walk to it from the campground: about 250 m to the car park and then about 250 m to the steps down. The signs on the way are a good reality check: flash floods, cold water, slippery rocks, a remote location and blue asbestos. Follow the yellow markers. It was busy when we went, and no wonder: Parks WA says it's one of the park's only permanent waterfalls.

Fern Pool. A short walk further on, and our first swim in Karijini. The sign warns that the water is very deep and very cold from April to September, with a risk of hypothermia. In August, it wasn't as cold as we expected. Our heads were still in NT croc mode, so it took a bit of nerve, but it was such a good experience. Parks WA asks you to enter quietly, as Fern Pool is a special place, and not to jump in.

Dales Gorge trail. The hosts told us trails are graded by their hardest part, so a Class 4 walk isn't hard all the way. The sign said 2 km and 3 hours return. We walked the gorge one way and came back along the rim, which was easy and quick. There are stepping stones that wobble and green algae that's really slippery, so we just got our feet wet. Near the exit there's a sign about asbestos and rockfall, then a steep climb out with steps.

Hancock Gorge and Kermit's Pool

This was our favourite. From Dales, it was about 45 minutes to the Weano Gorge car park, and DBCA says the road is now sealed all the way. Hancock Gorge and Weano Gorge both start from there, so check the signs: we walked off towards Weano Gorge first by mistake. The sign we wanted said Hancock Gorge to Kermit's Pool, Class 5, 1.5 km and 2 hours return. Follow the blue dots.

The way down is very steep ladders and rock, and the sign tells you to climb down backwards. Then you're in the water: knee-deep and freezing at first, and at one point right up to Luke's neck where he stepped off to the left, so he went on his back to keep the bag out of the water. You can also go along the rocks if you're confident. After that comes the narrow "spider walk" section, and then Kermit's Pool. We'd been told it was the coldest water in the park. It's very slimy where you get in. There were people of all ages doing it.

• Handrail Pool: we didn't do Weano Gorge. We'd been told it had no water when we were there. Parks WA lists the Handrail Pool route as a Class 5 scramble too.
• Wear shoes that grip wet rock. Parks WA says to change into them for Hancock Gorge, and once you reach the stop sign, return the way you came. Our wet shoes were brilliant here. Ash's are now permanently orange, so if you're buying some, get black ones.
• Take a dry bag for your phone and keys, because you'll be wading.
• The Weano day-use area has picnic facilities and toilets, and there's an emergency radio there (Parks WA).

Mount Bruce (Punurrunha)

We only found out about Mount Bruce two days before. While we were cooling off at Hancock Gorge, we got chatting to Madeline and Nick, also two Brits, who are exploring WA while basing themselves in Perth. They told us we should climb it, and we're so glad they did. At 1,234 m, it's the second-highest peak in WA. The trail goes up in sections, Class 2, then Class 3, then Class 5 for the final push to the summit. Parks WA lists it as 9 km return and says to allow 6 hours.

It's a proper hike. There are chains to hold on some exposed sections, a slippery bit with no chain, and narrow ledges with big drops, which Ash found tough with her fear of heights. You can see a huge mine on the edge of the park and ore trains that seem to go on forever, and the last stretch to the top through the bushes was a real slog. At the summit there's a notebook to sign, so look for ours from 11 August 2026. It took us 2 hours 20 minutes up and 1 hour 45 minutes down, plus a stop for food at the top.

• Pick your weather. We went in the daytime, with a high of 19°C and a cold, strong wind that kept us cool. Parks WA says to climb in the cooler part of the day in the hotter months, and that no part of the trail should be attempted before sunrise or after sunset.
• Our checklist: plenty of water, good shoes, sunglasses, sun cream and hats.
• The road in is the rough bit for a 2WD. Take it slowly; there were smoother tyre tracks along the side.

Afterwards, we drove into Tom Price to restock. We'd run out of almost everything, tea bags included. Warning: the red dirt gives you a very convincing fake tan.

Where we stayed: the rest area just outside Hamersley Gorge, so we could do the gorge first thing the next morning. It's along the unsealed road in to the gorge, and we got there just before dark, so plan your day so you're not doing that road in the dark. It was a lovely, quiet spot with lots of room to spread out. There are fire pits, which other campers used. We didn't light one ourselves.

Hamersley Gorge and the Spa Pool

Hamersley Gorge was our last stop in the park, and it's a bit further away than the rest, which is why we camped just outside it the night before. Parks WA says it's in the north-west of the park, with sealed road access to the lower car park. We still had an unsealed road to get there, which the Dales hosts had told us had been recently graded. It was fine in the dry and isn't a 4WD track, but we wouldn't drive it if it was wet (see it at 25:52).

The waterfall walk is Class 4 in its hardest spot and about an hour return. We arrived earlier in the day than at any other gorge, and it was chilly. We thought you had to swim through a big pool at the start, but we took the Class 5 trail up with chains instead, and it brought us out above the Spa Pool. Getting in is a bit precarious, because the rocks are all slanted, so take your time. It's said to be the warmest pool in the park, and it's still cold. Everyone took turns getting in and let each other get their photos, which was lovely to see.

Every gorge felt different. If we had to pick, though, Hancock Gorge and Kermit's Pool was our favourite.

Leaving Karijini: on to Exmouth

From Hamersley Gorge, we drove out to Exmouth on the coast. It's a long drive, but there are a few places to camp along the way to break the trip up, and we stayed at some roadhouses. Just before Exmouth, we stayed at Bullara Station, which we'll cover in a future Exmouth and Ningaloo guide. As with the drive down from Broome, work out how far you want to go each day, check WikiCamps for somewhere in range, and aim to be parked up before dark. Fill up and restock before you leave the Tom Price side, too: Parks WA's advice to carry enough water, food and fuel applies on the way out as much as the way in.

Gorge safety and trail classes

Karijini's gorges are beautiful, but the signs about fatalities are there for a reason. Here's what Parks WA says (checked 2 November 2026):

• Flash floods: do not enter gorges if there is rain in the area. If it starts raining while you're in a gorge, leave immediately.
• Cold water: the pools are extremely cold from April to September, and hypothermia is a risk. Don't dive or jump in.
• Trail classes: the visitor guide grades trails from Class 1 (easiest) to Class 5 (extreme). Class 5 trails, like Hancock Gorge, the Spa Pool, Knox Gorge and the Mount Bruce summit, have very rough, slippery surfaces, and you'll need to wade, scramble and climb.
• Stop signs: the Class 5 gorge trails end at a stop sign. Return the way you came, and don't go past it.
• Blue asbestos: it's naturally present in the rock in places. Parks WA warns about Yampire and Wittenoom Gorges in particular.
• Be prepared: walk with someone, finish before dark, carry 3 to 4 litres of water each, and think about carrying a personal locator beacon. There are emergency radios at the Weano picnic area and the Fortescue Falls car park.
• Look after the place: no glass or alcohol in the gorges, and no soap, shampoo or sunscreen in the pools.

Before you go, check the Karijini National Park visitor guide (Parks and Wildlife Service, PDF) and Parks WA alerts, and ask the visitor centre which trails are open.

When to go, and the wet season

We went in August, in the dry. Days were about 19°C to 22°C, the nights were cold, and the water was very cold but swimmable. Most of the rain falls in summer, with thunderstorms and cyclones. Parks WA says November to April is tropical cyclone season, December to April can be very hot, and the visitor guide says it can get above 50°C outside the gorges between November and April. The visitor centre is closed from early December to early February, and the overflow campground is only open from April to October.

In the wet season, flash floods in the gorges and closed gravel roads are a real risk. Parks WA's remote travel page says unsealed roads may be impassable after rain, so check Parks WA alerts and the Main Roads WA Travel Map before you set off, and be ready to change your plans.

Fuel, water, signal and driving

Fuel and supplies. Parks WA says to arrive with enough water, food and fuel, because services are few and far between out here. Our main resupply on the way in was Port Hedland, and we restocked again in Tom Price after Mount Bruce. Dales has no drinking water. The visitor guide lists water at the visitor centre and an untreated tank on Banjima Drive East, so bring plenty and treat anything untreated.

Signal. Coverage is limited. The visitor guide (2023) lists Telstra at the visitor centre, the Eco Retreat, Mount Bruce and Hamersley Gorge, and Optus at the visitor centre, the Eco Retreat and Dales campground. Elsewhere, it recommends a satellite phone. We had phone signal at Dales campground and at the visitor centre, but that's our experience and coverage varies by network. That's why it's worth booking Dales and buying your pass before you arrive. Parks WA also has offline park maps you can download. On the drive down from Broome, we had signal at pretty much every roadhouse, too. There's more on how we stay connected in our apps guide.

Wildlife and driving. We try not to drive at sunrise, sunset or after dark when we can, because that's when the wildlife comes out. Plan your driving days so you're parked up by dusk, and leave enough time to get back before sunset after a late walk.

Planning. We used WikiCamps to plan stops along the way, including the rest areas between Broome and Karijini. Fire bans and camping etiquette are covered in our free camping guide.

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