Key points
- Yes, you can do Darwin and Kakadu in a 2WD. Parks Australia says Ubirr, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water in Kakadu can all be reached in a 2WD.
- Book Darwin camping ahead. Everywhere we looked around Darwin was always booked, so plan ahead.
- The famous Kakadu falls are 4WD only, and closed in 2026 anyway. The access report lists Jim Jim and Twin Falls as closed for 2026, and Maguk as closed too.
- Go to the Kakadu visitor centre first. That's how we found out what was open, which crossings were dry and where to watch the sunset.
- Kakadu needs its own pass, and its campgrounds can't be booked. The NT Parks pass doesn't cover it, and campgrounds are first come, first served.
- Never swim where it isn't signed as safe. In Kakadu, we watched several crocs in the river at Cahills Crossing.
- Mind the low branches. Luke got stung twice on the neck by paper wasps in the Cahills Crossing car park.
Can you do the Top End in a 2WD?
Yes, for the big sights. Ron is a 2WD, and we stick to sealed roads and firm tracks. The highways, Darwin and the roads to the main sights in Kakadu were sealed. Where a 2WD gets caught out is the side roads to the famous waterfalls. Here's how the places on our route, and the popular ones we skipped, stack up (official pages checked 4 November 2026):
| Road or place | In a 2WD? | What the official page says, and what we found |
|---|---|---|
| Litchfield's main falls | Yes | We did them on the way up. They're in our Stuart Highway guide, with Litchfield's 4WD-only spots. |
| Darwin, Humpty Doo and the Arnhem Highway to Kakadu | Yes | All sealed, as we found. |
| Kakadu: Ubirr, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), Yellow Water | Yes | Parks Australia says all three can be reached in a 2WD. We did Ubirr and the Yellow Water cruise. |
| The road to Cahills Crossing and Merl campground | Yes, when dry | There's a creek crossing on the way that can have water in it. We asked at the visitor centre first, and it was completely dry (see it in our video). The access report now shows water over Cahills Crossing itself, so ask first. |
| The road to Nanguluwurr | Ask first, then go slowly | The visitor centre told us it was fine in a 2WD. It's graded, but one of the most corrugated roads we've driven in Australia, and part of it is signed as 4WD recommended. We did about 10 km/h (see it in our video). |
| Kakadu: Gunlom | No | High-clearance 4WD only on the access report, with a seasonal closure from 11 November 2026. |
| Kakadu: Jim Jim Falls, Twin Falls | No | 4WD only, and listed as closed for 2026. |
| Kakadu: Maguk | No | Listed as closed on the access report, for crocodile management. |
Hire van? Parks Australia warns that some hire companies won't let you take a 2WD on unsealed roads at all, so check your agreement before you plan any gravel (Kakadu: getting around).
How long, when, and our route
We were in the Top End in July 2026, in the dry season, and it was hot. We spent about two weeks in and around Darwin and 2 to 3 days in Kakadu. You can do Darwin much quicker than we did, but the longer you stay, the more you get to explore.
Our route:
- Off the Stuart Highway, a night at a campground at Adelaide River.
- Litchfield National Park on the way in (it's in our Stuart Highway guide).
- Darwin for about two weeks, moving between three places to stay: the Waterfront, the CBD, the markets and the Deckchair Cinema.
- East on the Arnhem Highway for the jumping croc cruise on the Adelaide River, then a night at Corroboree Park Tavern.
- Into Kakadu at the top: the visitor centre, Cahills Crossing, Merl campground and Ubirr.
- Jabiru, the Nanguluwurr rock art walk, the Warradjan cultural centre, a night at Cooinda Lodge and the Yellow Water sunset cruise.
- On to Katherine to restock, then west on the Victoria Highway into WA. That's in our Darwin to Broome guide.
Katherine, Nitmiluk, Mataranka and Berry Springs Nature Park are in our Adelaide to Darwin guide, so we haven't repeated them here.
Litchfield, on the way in
We stopped at Litchfield National Park on the way up, before Darwin, and it turned into one of our favourite places in Australia so far. Buley Rockhole was our favourite swim spot. It's all in the Litchfield section of our Stuart Highway guide, with the falls we swam at, the campground and the 4WD-only spots, so we haven't repeated it here.
Darwin
We spent about two weeks in and around Darwin. With its markets and Southeast Asian food, it felt like nowhere else in Australia. You can see the main sights in a few days, but the longer you stay, the more you get to explore.
- Getting around. From a caravan park outside the centre, we took the bus into town. We got off at the last stop for the Waterfront Precinct and walked from there (see it in our video).
- The Waterfront. Bars, restaurants and a saltwater lagoon with different depths where you can swim. There's lots of parking by the Waterfront, so you can bring a van down. We went back another day to swim (see it in our video).
- The CBD and Austin Lane. It was a Sunday, so the centre was quiet and some places were shut, including a World War II storage tunnel museum at 3pm. We read about Cyclone Tracy, which devastated Darwin in 1974, and found the street art on Austin Lane (see it in our video).
- Mindil Beach Sunset Market. We went on a Sunday. It took about 23 minutes on the bus from town. We waited too long and the food stalls got very busy, so go early. Watch the sunset from the beach (see it in our video). There's more on the markets below.
- The Deckchair Cinema. An outdoor cinema where you watch the film from deckchairs. It was the last thing on our Darwin list (see it in our video).
Where we stayed around Darwin
Camping around Darwin is hard work in the dry season. Everywhere was always booked, so plan ahead, and don't expect to turn up and find a pitch. We moved between three places:
- Berry Springs Park and Stay. A small private campground at Berry Springs, south of Darwin.
- CMCA RV Park Humpty Doo. We found it on WikiCamps. It's unpowered and great value, and it's on the Arnhem Highway towards Kakadu.
- BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park. Our base for exploring the city.
Darwin's markets
Darwin has lots of incredible local markets, and they're one of the best things about the city. Mindil is the famous one, but it only runs in the dry season. These are the official times, so plan your days around them.
The jumping croc cruise and Corroboree Park
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Seeing saltwater crocodiles in the wild had been on our bucket list since we decided to come to Australia. The Adelaide River is on the Arnhem Highway, on the way from Darwin to Kakadu, so it fits neatly into the drive. We went with the Adelaide River Cruises Jumping Crocodile Experience.
- Go on the first cruise. We read that 9am and 3pm are the best times, and booked the 9am. The cruises looked like they ran about every hour, and ours took about an hour. The guide said the crocs need to warm up before they're active, so there are pros and cons to morning and afternoon (see it in our video).
- Keep everything inside the boat. Don't put your hands, arms or head over the rail, or even on it.
- The crocs. The guide knew them all by name: Dominator, Lucifer, Brutus, a pale one called Milky and Rambo. Brutus is the oldest they know of, with only two or three teeth left (see it in our video).
- Purple Mango Café. A good stop for food on the Arnhem Highway. Just after, a sign said 82 km to Kakadu National Park (see it in our video).
- Corroboree Park Tavern. We camped here on a Saturday night. Check in at the tavern. The unpowered area is on the other side of the pool, with a powered section if it's busy. There's a buffalo, a pig wallowing in the water, and crocs in pens (see it in our video).
Kakadu: the visitor centre and passes
We'd watched a Kakadu documentary series before we came, so we had a long list. Then we found out parts of the park were closed for the whole 2026 season for repairs after a bad wet season. So our first stop was the visitor centre at Bowali, about 2 hours' drive from Darwin (see it in our video). We had 2 to 3 days in the park, and that was enough for what was open to a 2WD.
- Start at the visitor centre. It was quiet when we went, and the staff told us exactly what was open, which roads were fine in a 2WD and where to watch the sunset. Ask before you plan your days.
- Buy your Kakadu pass. We bought ours at the visitor centre. It's separate from the NT Parks pass, which doesn't cover Kakadu.
- Campgrounds can't be booked. They're first come, first served, so have a back-up plan for busy times.
- Most of the best of Kakadu is easier in a 4WD. We knew that going in. In a 2WD, we still had more than enough to fill our days.
Cahills Crossing, Merl and Ubirr
From the visitor centre, it's about half an hour to Jabiru, then north to Cahills Crossing, Merl campground and Ubirr, which are all close together. We bought coffee, ice cream and some change for the campground fees at a shop on the way.
- Watch out for paper wasps. In the Cahills Crossing car park, Luke walked under a low branch with a nest hanging from it and got stung twice on the neck (see it in our video). He cleaned the stings and took an antihistamine. Look up before you walk under trees.
- Cahills Crossing. The walks were closed, but the viewing platform was open, and we saw several crocs in the river (see it in our video). A sign says there's been a fatal attack here. We watched people walking down towards the water despite the signs. Don't.
- Merl campground. We stayed one night and paid the fee. There are showers (we'd heard they were cold), and fire pits. The mosquitoes and flies were massive, so bring repellent (see it in our video).
- Ubirr at sunset. The visitor centre recommended it, and it's only 2 to 3 minutes' drive from Merl. The walk passes the main rock art gallery, and it gets busy at sunset. It was all really green, and smoke from controlled burns softened the sunset. Bring water; we forgot ours (see it in our video).
- Drive slowly after dark. We drove back to Merl slowly, watching for wildlife.
Jabiru and the Nanguluwurr walk
- The Kakadu Crocodile Hotel. The next morning we drove through Jabiru to see the crocodile-shaped hotel, and had a nosy in the gift shop (see it in our video).
- Marrawuddi Arts & Culture. This is where we got our coffee in Jabiru: a fantastic iced mocha. There's lots of amazing art to buy too. We didn't film the art.
- The road to Nanguluwurr. Graded, but so corrugated that we were down to about 10 km/h, and there's a "caution buffalo in area" sign. The visitor centre said it was fine in a 2WD, and it was, slowly (see it in our video).
- The walk. The sign said 2.5 hours. It took us about 20 minutes out and 26 back, just under an hour. After the controlled burns it was hot and exposed, so cover up and wear a hat (see it in our video).
- The rock art. Paintings in ochre of fish, a kangaroo and what might be a turtle, and a painted ship. A sign explains how boats brought supplies to the buffalo hunting camps.
- Controlled burns. We saw them along the roadsides as we drove round the park. Expect smoke in the dry season.
Warradjan, Cooinda and the Yellow Water cruise
- The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. A ranger recommended it for a hot afternoon, and it has air con. No cameras are allowed inside, so we've nothing to show you, but it's worth going (see it in our video).
- Where we stayed: Cooinda Lodge. It runs a shuttle bus to the cruise, about 2 minutes down the road. There's a bar and bistro too.
- The Yellow Water sunset cruise. It left at 4.30pm and took 2 hours. The other cruises are about 1.5 hours, earlier in the day. It's on the more expensive side, but we saw buffalo, egrets, a kingfisher, loads of other birds and a croc called Grumpy, about 3.5 m long. The guide said the crocs don't eat much in the cooler months (see it in our video).
The Kakadu sights we didn't do
Most "best of Kakadu" lists start with the big waterfalls. In a 2WD in 2026, we couldn't do any of them, so here's what the official pages say.
Leaving Kakadu
From Yellow Water, the way we'd suggest is south on the Kakadu Highway to Pine Creek and the Stuart Highway, then Katherine. We restocked in Katherine and took the Victoria Highway west into WA. It's a long drive, and WikiCamps found us rest areas and camps along the way. The rest is in our Darwin to Broome guide. Check the NT Road Report before you set off, especially late in the dry season.
Crocodiles and wet-season closures
- Only swim in signed swimming areas. In the Top End, never assume water is safe because other people are in it.
- Trust the signs, not the crowd. At Cahills, people walked towards the water right next to a sign about a fatal attack.
- Plan around closures. A big wet season can close parts of a park for the whole next year, as it did in Kakadu in 2026.
- Look up. Paper wasps nest on low branches.
FAQs
Can you do Kakadu in a 2WD?
Yes, for the main sights. We did Kakadu in our 2WD van. Parks Australia says Ubirr, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water can all be reached in a 2WD. Jim Jim Falls, Twin Falls and Gunlom are 4WD only, and in 2026 Jim Jim and Twin Falls were closed for the whole year.
How long do you need in Darwin and Kakadu?
We spent about two weeks in and around Darwin and 2 to 3 days in Kakadu. You can do Darwin much quicker, but the longer you stay, the more you get to explore.
Where can you camp near Darwin in a campervan?
We moved between Berry Springs Park and Stay, the CMCA RV Park at Humpty Doo (unpowered, for fully self-contained vehicles) and BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park. Everywhere was always booked in the dry season, so plan ahead.
Do you need a pass for Kakadu?
Yes. Kakadu needs its own pass, which the NT Parks Visitor Pass doesn't cover. We bought ours at the Bowali visitor centre.
Can you book campgrounds in Kakadu?
No. Kakadu's campgrounds are first come, first served. We stayed at Merl, near Ubirr, and paid on site.
When are Darwin's markets on?
Mindil Beach Sunset Market runs on Thursday and Sunday evenings from the last Thursday in April to the last Thursday in October. Parap is every Saturday morning, Nightcliff every Sunday morning, and Rapid Creek on Saturday and Sunday mornings, all year. Check the official pages before you go.
What time is best for the Adelaide River jumping croc cruise?
We read that 9am and 3pm are the best times and went on the 9am cruise, which took about an hour. The guide said the crocs need to warm up before they're active, so there are pros and cons to each.
What about Litchfield?
We did Litchfield on the way up from the south, before Darwin. It's in the Litchfield section of our Adelaide to Darwin Stuart Highway guide.
Sources
Our own experience comes from our time in the Top End in July 2026, and the videos linked above. Official information was checked on 4 November 2026. Closures in Kakadu change daily, so check the official pages before you go.
- Kakadu access report
- Kakadu National Park FAQs
- Kakadu: getting around
- Kakadu: Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) region
- Kakadu: Cooinda Lodge
- Kakadu: Kakadu Crocodile Hotel
- Kakadu: Marrawuddi Arts & Culture
- Kakadu: Warradjan Cultural Centre
- CMCA RV Park Humpty Doo
- Berry Springs Park and Stay listing
- BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park
- Mindil Beach Sunset Market FAQs
- Parap Village Markets
- Rapid Creek Markets
- Nightcliff Markets listing
- Darwin Waterfront: Wave Lagoon
- Crocosaurus Cove
- Darwin Military Museum
- NT Road Report
- Be Crocwise: stay safe while swimming
- Be Crocwise: crocodiles and me
More guides
- Adelaide to Darwin in a 2WD: the drive up, including Litchfield, Katherine, Mataranka and Berry Springs.
- Darwin to Broome in a 2WD: what we did next, over the WA border.
- Our Great Lap route: where the Top End fits in our lap of Australia.
- Free camping in Australia: how we find spots and the unwritten rules.
- All our guides.