Buying a van in Australia on a working holiday visa: what to know

How it compares to the UK

If you've owned a car in the UK, most of this will feel familiar. It just has different names, and it's run by each state instead of nationally.

What surprised us most

The systems are pretty similar when it comes down to it, but we were shocked to learn how different it can be depending on the state you're in, and that it wasn't just one rule for all states like at home in the UK.

We found NSW very complicated and actually quite expensive, compared to WA, for example. So if you're travelling around the country and don't know when you'll be back in the state you bought your van in, consider that when deciding where to buy it.

Rego, state by state

Registration is handled by each state and territory. When you buy a registered vehicle, you transfer the rego into your name in the state it's registered in. We bought Ron in NSW, so he started out on NSW rego. He's now registered in South Australia, and the story of how that happened is further down this page.

Transfer deadlines, stamp duty and interstate vehicles

In all eight states and territories, the buyer has 14 days to transfer the registration. Late transfers can mean fees, and until it's transferred the seller can end up with your fines. Every state and territory also charges stamp duty (each has its own name for it) when you buy privately, unless an exemption applies. Here's how they compare (all checked 31 October 2026):

NSW pink slips and blue slips

NSW is the one most travellers ask about.

• Pink slip: an annual safety check at a licensed garage for vehicles over five years old, needed before you can renew the rego. It's a bit like a basic MOT.
• Blue slip (now officially called an AUVIS inspection): a more detailed safety and identity inspection for unregistered vehicles, vehicles whose rego expired more than three months ago, or interstate vehicles being registered in NSW.
• Transferring as a visitor: NSW lets you transfer online only if you hold a NSW driver licence. On an overseas licence, you'll usually need to go to a Service NSW centre with proof of purchase and ID.

Our transfer at Service NSW

We transferred Ron into our names at a Service NSW centre. It was straightforward, but it cost more than we expected, because we didn't know you pay stamp duty on a vehicle you buy privately. In NSW, motor vehicle duty is generally payable when you transfer the registration. For a used vehicle it's worked out on the sale price or the market value, whichever is higher, and Service NSW collects it along with the transfer fee (Revenue NSW, checked 31 October 2026). Every other state and territory charges its own version too (see the table above), so put it in your budget.

We paid for another 12 months of rego, sorted our insurance, and we were ready to go.

Source: NSW Government: safety checks and vehicle inspections.

Can you drive an interstate-registered van around Australia?

Yes. Rego is valid wherever you drive in Australia. The question is where you live. Each state has rules for when a vehicle kept there needs local rego. Queensland gives you 14 days after moving there, SA and the NT give you 3 months, and Tasmania lets you use interstate rego for 3 months, or longer if the vehicle is used non-commercially by someone who lives interstate. The table above covers all eight. Lots of travellers keep their van registered in the state they bought it in and renew from wherever they are. Whether that's easy depends on the state.

Our story: from NSW rego to SA rego

When we transferred Ron into our names at Service NSW, we paid for 12 months of rego. A year later, when renewal came round, we were in South Australia.

Ron is over five years old, so NSW wanted a new pink slip before we could renew. Getting that sorted from SA turned out to be difficult and expensive. NSW does accept some interstate inspection reports, but only from approved inspectors, only when you're more than 50 km from the NSW border, and they can't be used to renew online. We had to post the paperwork to NSW, it took two weeks, and that simply wasn't enough time before Ron's rego ran out. NSW also says you have to still be a NSW resident who's only temporarily away to renew from interstate.

So we switched Ron to SA rego instead. He had an SA inspection, which he passed fine, and then we went into a Service SA centre. It was simple, the staff were super helpful, and the cost wasn't much different. Renewing each year has been much more straightforward since.

If you're thinking of doing the same, SA says you need to register an interstate vehicle in SA within 3 months if you've moved there or bought it from interstate, and some vehicles need a vehicle identity inspection first. Check the SA Government page on interstate vehicles and NSW's interstate renewal rules before you decide (both checked 31 October 2026).

Don't let your rego lapse

Driving unregistered means you're also not covered by CTP in most states, which could leave you personally liable if someone is injured. Set a reminder for your rego expiry, and check it's current before you buy. You can check rego status free on each state's website.

CTP, insurance and why it matters

CTP is compulsory everywhere in Australia. It covers your liability if someone is injured or killed in a crash you're involved in.

What CTP doesn't cover: damage to your van, someone else's vehicle, or property. Windscreens, dents and crash repairs aren't covered by CTP. For that, you need one of these:

• Third-party property: covers damage you cause to other people's vehicles and property.
• Third-party fire and theft: as above, plus fire and theft of your vehicle.
• Comprehensive: covers your own vehicle too. Some policies include windscreen cover or offer it as an extra.

Our insurance

We had to replace Ron's windscreen in the Northern Territory. CTP didn't pay for that: our comprehensive policy did.

We're insured with CIL Insurance, on a fully comprehensive policy. Ron's previous owner recommended them, and finding cover wasn't hard. Our policy covers converted campervans like Ron that aren't officially registered as motorhomes, which isn't something every insurer does, so check this for your own van. It also includes cover for the contents, up to a set amount.

Our policy includes a windscreen repair or replacement each year with no excess, and that's what covered our NT windscreen. CIL's motorhome insurance wording describes this as no basic excess on the first windscreen repair or replacement claim in each period of insurance, with some limits, so read the details for your own policy (CIL motorhome insurance, checked 31 October 2026).

We're not saying CIL is right for everyone. It's simply who we use. Whoever you go with, tell them your van has been converted, and that you're on a visa and an overseas licence, and check exactly what's covered before you buy the policy.

Where to buy

Private sellers and backpacker sales

Lots of travellers sell their vans at the end of their trip, so there are plenty around. We bought Ron already converted from a private seller, after finding him on Facebook Marketplace through the van resale groups. Other places include Gumtree, backpacker hostel boards and dedicated van selling groups.

• Pros: often cheaper, often come with gear included, and you can ask the owner lots of questions.
• Cons: no warranty, and you have to do all the checks yourself. Vans are often sold quickly because the seller has a flight to catch.

Dealers

• Pros: in most states, licensed dealers have to give you clear title, and there may be a statutory warranty depending on the vehicle's age and kilometres. Some offer buy-back deals.
• Cons: usually more expensive.

Check your state's consumer affairs or fair trading website for what dealers have to provide.

Buy where the vans are

Prices and choice vary a lot by city and season. Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns and Perth all have busy backpacker van markets. Where the van is registered matters too. It affects how easy it is to renew while you're travelling, it's often easier to sell in the same state, and some states need an inspection when you re-register. We'd think about the rego state as much as the price.

How we found Ron (and the van we didn't buy)

Ron wasn't the first van we went to see. We first flew into Perth to look at an older van with a brand-new conversion. It had been sitting still for a while. We had it mechanically inspected, and the inspection didn't find any red flags, but the mechanic kindly warned us off. In his experience, a van that's been stationary for a long time often starts having problems once it's driven again. Buying it could have been a big financial mistake for us, and it's the best example we know of why an inspection is worth it.

After that we raised our budget and looked for a newer van. We found Ron, a 2018 Renault Master with around 72,000 km on the clock, for sale privately in Forster, NSW. We had video calls with his owner over Facebook, then flew to Sydney and took the train to Forster, where the owner picked us up. Ron had his inspection, the mechanic told us he was a really good van with a clean report, and we did the deal. That was in 2024. Once we were there, it was a quick decision.

Checks before you pay

1. PPSR check

A PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) search tells you whether there's finance owing on the vehicle, and whether it's been reported stolen or written off. If there's money owing and you buy it, the lender could repossess it.

• You search by the VIN (vehicle identification number). Make sure it matches the van and the paperwork.
• Do it on the day you buy, or the day before.
• It doesn't show who owns the vehicle, the odometer, or unpaid fines.

Official site: ppsr.gov.au.

We did a PPSR check on Ron, and it was worth it: Ron's previous owner had had finance on him. He showed us proof it had been paid off before we handed over any money. If a check shows finance, don't buy until you've seen that proof.

2. Independent inspection

We saw every van in person, and had them mechanically inspected before we paid anything. As our Perth story shows, a good mechanic will tell you about problems that haven't started yet.

Ron was inspected through Carinspect, which does pre-purchase inspections in every state and territory, at the seller's place or at a workshop. Their inspections include a road test, and the mechanic talks you through what they found. You can also use a local mobile mechanic or your state motoring club's inspection service.

A roadworthy or safety certificate is not the same as a full mechanical inspection. It covers key safety items, not things like the engine's general health.

3. Check the conversion

For a converted van, look closely at the build as well as the vehicle:

• Electrics: who installed the 240V side, if there is one? It should be done by a licensed electrician, and you should ask for the paperwork (more on this below).
• Gas: look for a gas compliance certificate if there's a fixed gas system, and check the bottle's test date.
• Weight: a heavy build can take a van close to its maximum weight.
• Water and damp: check under the bed, around windows and the roof fan.
• Seats and seatbelts: if seats were added or moved, they need to be fitted properly.

Ron was converted by Savage Adventure Vans, and we've made a few changes since.

What we wish we'd known about the electrics

We didn't know enough about van electrics when we bought Ron, especially how much battery capacity we'd need for the way we travel. We had an auto electrician check the system when we bought him, and he said it was safe. Later, when we paid for a full upgrade of the power setup, the electrician doing the changeover found red flags that the first check had missed, and fixed them.

Our advice:

• Use someone you trust and who's well reviewed, not just whoever is free that week.
• Work out your power needs before you buy. Think about the fridge, laptops, cameras and how long you'll stay off-grid.
• Get the paperwork for any 240V work. In Western Australia, for example, 240V electrical work in a campervan conversion has to be done by a licensed electrical worker employed by a licensed electrical contractor, and WA's regulator says that licensed work involves mandatory checks, tests and certification. It has prosecuted an unlicensed campervan converter over defective 240V work. Ask for the certificate and keep it with the van's papers. Other states have their own rules, so check with the electrical safety regulator in the state where the work is done.

We've written up our setup in our van power setup guide.

4. Paperwork

• Rego papers in the seller's name, matching the VIN.
• Service history.
• A written receipt with both names, the date, price, VIN and odometer reading.
• The right roadworthy, safety certificate or slip for the state, if needed.

Driving licences

We both drive Ron on our UK licences. We move around a lot, so we haven't needed a state licence.

You can usually drive in Australia on a full UK licence as a visitor. How long for, and when you have to switch, depends on the state or territory you live in. Here's what each official page says for people on a temporary visa (all checked 31 October 2026):

• New South Wales: temporary overseas visitors can drive on a current overseas licence for up to six months. If you arrived on or after 1 July 2023 and live in NSW for longer than that, you'll need a NSW licence to keep driving (nsw.gov.au).
• Victoria: if you're staying for less than six months you can drive on your overseas licence. If you move there for more than six months, you must convert. The six months starts from the day you first begin living in Victoria, even if you leave and come back (VicRoads).
• Queensland: the three-month rule to transfer applies to Australian citizens and people on resident (permanent) visas, not temporary visas (qld.gov.au).
• South Australia: visitors from overseas on a temporary visa can drive on a current overseas licence if they're not disqualified. Permanent residents have 3 months to get an SA licence (My Licence SA).
• Western Australia: people working or studying temporarily count as visitors and can keep driving on a current overseas licence. Australian citizens and permanent residents who move to WA have 3 months to transfer (visiting and moving from overseas).
• Tasmania: visitors and temporary visa holders, including working holiday makers, can drive on a current overseas licence, as long as the other conditions on the page are met (transport.tas.gov.au).
• Northern Territory: new residents and visitors can drive on an overseas licence for up to 3 months. If you stay in the NT for a continuous period of more than 3 months, you must transfer to an NT licence (nt.gov.au).
• ACT: visitors on working holiday visas count as visiting drivers and don't need an ACT licence. ACT residents on a temporary visa can choose to get one, and permanent visa holders must switch within 3 months (Access Canberra).

If your licence isn't in English, most states ask you to carry an International Driving Permit or an approved English translation with it.

A standard UK car licence (category B) generally lets you drive vans like Ron. In NSW, for example, a car licence covers vehicles up to 4.5 tonnes. If you're looking at a bigger motorhome, check its weight against the licence classes in your state.

We're planning to get WA licences, as WA is where we're settling for now. If you stay put in one state for a while, check that state's rules, because they're not all the same.

Roadside assistance

Here's a confession: we don't have roadside cover. Or rather, it's cover we didn't know we didn't have.

We'd assumed our UK AA membership would give us reciprocal cover in Australia. We'd used it when we visited about 10 years ago. When we looked into it properly, we found it's not something we could rely on now, and we couldn't find anything on the AA's website offering it for Australia. If you're counting on a UK membership, ask the AA directly before you leave.

Ron has been good to us and we've never needed help. But Australia is huge, and breakdowns in remote places are expensive, so we'd strongly recommend roadside cover for any road trip here. Each state has a motoring club with roadside cover:

• NSW and ACT: NRMA
• Victoria: RACV
• Queensland: RACQ
• South Australia: RAA
• Western Australia: RAC
• Tasmania: RACT
• Northern Territory: AANT

Check what's covered when you're outside your home state or in remote areas, how far they'll tow, and whether a van like yours (its size and weight) is covered.

Fuel, distances and keeping your van healthy

• Distances are huge. You can drive hundreds of kilometres between fuel stops in the outback. Fill up whenever you can, and know your van's range.
• Plan remote stretches before you set off. Check where the next fuel stops are and their opening hours, as some roadhouses close early or run out. Keep a safe margin rather than running close to empty, and remember a headwind, hills or a heavy load will use more fuel.
• Fuel prices vary a lot, especially in remote areas. A fuel app helps. See our van life apps guide.
• Service it regularly. We get Ron serviced after every big trip.
• Parts for European vans can come from Europe. When Ron's manual fuel primer pump started leaking and letting air into the fuel lines, Luke ordered a replacement from Europe and fitted it himself. It was really simple to change, the part was cheap, and it arrived quickly. How long delivery takes depends on where you are in Australia.

Fuel economy

We don't track Ron's fuel figures, but as Luke puts it: "he's more efficient than my car was in the UK."

If you want numbers, here's what other people have reported for Renault Master campervans. This is their feedback, not our figures, and your own will depend on the conversion, the weight you carry and how you drive:

• A 2018 review of a Renault Master camper conversion (170hp diesel) found it worked out at around 30mpg in real driving (CompleteCar.ie).
• One UK owner of a Renault Master L3H3 2.3 diesel reported an average of 30.3mpg (r/VanLifeUK).

For reference, 30mpg (UK gallons) is roughly 9.4 litres per 100 km, which is how fuel use is usually quoted in Australia.

Selling before you leave

Most travellers sell their van before they fly home, so plan for it from the start. We're hoping to sell Ron in WA before our move to Canada in the coming year.

• Give yourself time. Selling in a rush usually means accepting a lower price.
• Think about where and when. Some cities and seasons are busier than others.
• Keep the rego current and the paperwork tidy. Buyers will expect whatever their state needs for the transfer: a roadworthy certificate in Victoria, a safety certificate in Queensland, a roadworthy inspection in the ACT for vans more than six years old, and a roadworthy in the NT for vans over seven years old. NSW, SA, WA and Tasmania don't list one for a normal same-state transfer, but a recent inspection report still helps.
• Tell the transport authority when you sell, so you're not liable for the next owner's fines or tolls.
• Cancel or transfer your insurance and roadside cover.

Selling a van registered in another state

This is our situation: Ron is on SA rego, and we're hoping to sell him in WA. Here's what the official pages say (checked 31 October 2026):

• The seller tells their own state. In SA, you have to submit a notice of disposal when you sell. You can do it online through mySAGOV only if the buyer is from SA. If the buyer is from interstate, you use the paper form instead, and keep a copy for your records (SA Government).
• The buyer registers it in their state. WA says a vehicle licensed in another state has to be inspected at an Authorised Inspection Station before it can be licensed in WA. If you buy a car licensed in another state, that licence isn't valid for you under WA law, so you need a new WA licence before driving it on WA roads, or a temporary movement permit to move it before then. The application has to be made in person, and WA charges vehicle licence duty (stamp duty) on the vehicle's value (Transport WA).
• Be upfront with buyers. An interstate-registered van is a bit more work for a local buyer, so tell them early and point them to the official steps. A recent inspection report can help too.

Each state is different, so if you're selling somewhere else, check both your rego state's rules and the buyer's state's rules.

Our checklist

• Set a budget that includes rego, insurance, roadside cover and a buffer for repairs.
• Know the rules in the state the van is registered in. Our tables above cover all eight states and territories.
• Budget for stamp duty: every state and territory charges it on a private sale.
• See the van in person and get an independent inspection.
• Run a PPSR check on the VIN.
• Check the rego expiry date.
• Get the transfer done within the deadline (14 days everywhere).
• Get insurance on top of CTP.
• Get roadside cover, and don't assume a UK membership covers you.
• Think about which state the van is registered in, and how you'll renew it while travelling.
• Get any 240V electrics checked by a licensed, well-reviewed electrician, and keep the certificate.
• Plan your sale, including which state you'll sell in.

More guides